SCALLOPED DRESS: ( hemline)Trace your scallop on a full paper pattern first. You will need to change the pleats by cutting on the foldlines All inside foldlines will now be seamlines. On Piece 8, the piece removed will be added to # 7 or option 11. (On piece # 10 you will remove 2 sides, leaving only the flat center of the pleat. One side will be added to your front panel and one to the side panel. Pin all paper pieces together and fold pleats in place. Trim the bottom of pleat areas so they will not hang under the dress. Trace new lines onto fabric. Each embroidered panel will be stitched to its stiffener and the lining applied to the back ( wrong side to the stiffener). Use a fusible web strip. ( up to 2" wide) to secure the lining to the stiffener at the hemline. Baste all the way around the piece, in seam allowances following the scallop shape. Lay the paper design on each piece and retrace shape if needed as the fabric may have shrunk with the embroidery. Repeat with all skirt pieces. Trim to scallop shape desired. Satin stitch 2 rounds on each, the first with a narrower and longer stitch, letting the needle drop off the skirt on the hem edge. Sew skirt pieces together ( all now lined and satin stitched at the hems. Trim the seam allowance to ¼”. Bind the raw edges with lining fabric. Do not press open as these are now the pleat folds and will give you a very crisp flat dress. You can also use this method for a basic hemmed dress sewing and turning each skirt lining piece separately.
For scalloped sides of panels the pleat piece removed from #8 or each side of # 10 will be separate . Leave the seam allowance on the panel in case of fabric shrinkage due to embroidery. You will build each of these , embroidered fabric, stiffener and lining and satin stitch the hem edges. Each skirt part MUST be individual. The top ( waist edges must be edgefinished). The side edges will be raw. You will baste these pleat pieces behind the corresponding panel edges. (lining sides together). Lay your paper design on and retrace the shaped edge, straight stitch the design line, trim to shape and satin stitch as for hem line.
For the side panel ( side seam) make the wider pleat in the side seam pleat option. 1/2" at top and 3" at bottom ( or deep enough for your scallop, plus room to stitch the pleat to the skirt back.) Except the extra half pleat for the front will be a separate piece. Again pin and fold all skirt pieces to check for under hang. Sew pleat piece behind side panel the same way as the front panel was assembled. . All seams will be bound with lining fabric. The scallop needs to start with the narrow section at the waist.